…is where I sort of enjoyed a birthday dinner this year with my two best girls, Rie and Mia. I say “sort of” because, while the food was good and the wine even better, Mia spent most of the time crying and thrashing about in her brand-new stroller, meaning Rie and I, rather than chatting and enjoying the fine food, mostly took turns rocking Mia and walking her around the lobby, trying everything we could to get her to sleep or at least stop screaming. Joy.
But even with Mia’s protracted histrionics and efforts at distraction, Restaurant Chartier still managed to impress us in terms of quality, price and presentation…
Restaurant Chartier is a one-minute walk from 戸越公園 (togoshi koen) station on the 大井町線 (Oimachi Line), right down here in ritzy Shinagawa-ku. That probably makes it pretty remote for most of you, unless you live somewhere on the vast network of 東急 lines that crisscross this part of the city. We just walk (or “stroll,” I suppose) over from chic 戸越銀座 and are there in minutes, making it pretty much part of the ‘hood.
Anyway, suffice to say that it’s a bit off the beaten path, but nonetheless worth the trip!
The menu basically consists of the three differently-priced course menus. The 3,500 yen course includes starter, soup, fish and meat, then dessert. This was our choice for the evening.
The appetizer was a complex medly of vegetables and seafood, with 鮟鱇の肝 (liver of anglerfish) in the center surrounded by marinated squid, smoked salmon, crisp whole shrimp, smoked duck breast and more. Halfway into this we finished off the sparking wine aperitif and moved on to a 1998 Dominique Cabernet Saivignon Merlot from South Africa which was delicate yet complex, and a real bargain at 6000 yen.
The pumpkin soup which arrived next was good, and was followed by a perfectly grilled 真鯛 (madai) with sea urchin sauce. Absolutely amazing! Crisp near the edges, soft and meaty inside, it was the highlight of the meal.
Next came a grilled steak with red wine sauce, also perfectly cooked to melt in the mouth. The steak rested atop a sliced 山芋 was accompanied by a sprinkiling of diced carrot and a broiled new potato. While not a particularly innovative addition to the course menu, it did its job in rounding out the meal and getting the most out of that Dominique, which by this point had relaxed and was wearing more of its Merlot.
We wrapped things up with a special b-day dessert and tea and called it a night. It was our third visit, and there we were again, leaving fully satisifed and with a wallet only slightly lighter than when we entered.
Well-appointed, spacious, clean and almost smoke-free, it’s definitely worth a try if you find yourself in the ‘hood. Here are some pics from the meal if you’d like more encouragement…
